In the northern part of Tokyo's Shinjuku district, if you come across a street lined with a deck of neon street lights past a red arched way, you know you have arrived at the infamous Kabukicho. The Kabukicho Street in Tokyo. In conversation with Jake Adelstein, we pass by the historic stomping grounds of the yakuza.

In 2026, the Yakuza (Japanese organized crime) still maintain a presence in Shinjuku, particularly in the Kabukicho entertainment district, but they are much less visible than in previous decades. Due to the "Boryokudan Exclusion Ordinances" and aggressive police crackdowns over the last 15 years, the Yakuza have been forced "underground." In 2026, it is highly unlikely that a tourist will encounter any overt Yakuza activity. They primarily operate behind the scenes in businesses like "Kyabakura" (hostess clubs), illegal gambling, and gray-market real estate. For the average visitor to Shinjuku, the biggest "danger" is not the Yakuza, but rather "touts"—aggressive promoters who try to lure tourists into bars with the promise of cheap drinks, only to hit them with massive hidden "seating fees" or credit card scams. The Japanese government has implemented a "No Touting" law in Shinjuku, and the area is heavily patrolled by both police and neighborhood watch groups to ensure it remains safe for the millions of tourists who visit annually.