Whether Split is "too touristy" is a matter of perspective, but it is undeniably one of Croatia's busiest hubs. During the peak summer months (July and August), the narrow alleys of Diocletian's Palace can feel overwhelming as thousands of cruise ship passengers and backpackers converge on the historic center. The waterfront "Riva" promenade is lined with tourist-centric cafes, and the nightlife scene can be loud and rowdy. However, Split is unique because it is a "living city"—unlike Dubrovnik, which can feel like a museum, Split’s ancient walls are home to local shops, schools, and residents who have lived there for generations. If you visit during the "shoulder" seasons of May, June, or September, the city feels much more balanced. To avoid the "touristy" feel even in summer, one can explore the lush Marjan Hill park, visit the local "Pazar" market early in the morning, or take the ferry to the less-crowded nearby islands. While the central landmarks are highly commercialized, Split retains a gritty, authentic Mediterranean soul that is easy to find if you step just a few blocks away from the main Peristyle square.