Memory Lane (Omoide Yokocho in Japanese) is one of my favourite places to visit in Shinjuku at night. What is this? As vegetarians we can't eat in the many tiny yakitori restaurants down the narrow alleyways serving meat on skewers, but it's an atmospheric place to wander.

For a quintessential Tokyo experience, Shinjuku-dori is the primary "best" street, especially on weekends and holidays when it becomes a "Pedestrian Paradise" (Hokosha Tengoku), closing to cars so crowds can roam freely among massive department stores like Isetan. However, for sheer atmosphere, most visitors prefer the narrow alleys of Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) for its nostalgic "Old Tokyo" feel with tiny yakitori stalls, or the neon-drenched main gate of Kabukicho Ichibangai. If you seek a more polished, modern vibe, the terrace at Southern Terrace near the South Exit offers beautifully illuminated walkways and a great view of the Shinjuku skyline. Each of these streets represents a different facet of Shinjuku's multifaceted personality, from high-end retail and futuristic neon to gritty, charming backalleys that have remained unchanged for decades.