Why are waves so big at Newquay Cornwall?

In the UK and especially in Newquay, Cornwall we have a long continental shelf. This means the ocean bed is flat and continues quite far out before dropping off. This is great for people wanting to learn to surf as it creates gentle waves which are fat (not steep) and crumble slowly at the top.



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The massive waves, described as “death-defying” and like a “beast”, are created when the sea moves over the reefs located 500 ft off Towan Head. They appear only a few times a year when the wind and swell combine to create ideal conditions.

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Often these beaches are too exposed to the swell and high winds hailing form the West. Newquay's popular bay is sheltered from these winds and can often produce fun, surfable waves when many other beaches in the area offer no protection.

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Named after the reef it rolls over, The Cribbar is Newquay's own big wave. It only makes an appearance a few times each year, because the weather and swell conditions need to be just right. When they are, they create the famous wall of water, rising up to 30ft high just off the ocean-facing side of The Headland.

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Huge Atlantic swells and the infamous Cribbar, a reef off Towan Headland, can create waves in excess of 9 metres high. The beach can become quite crowded in the summer, but the surf is usually good year-round, so worth a trip at any time of year.

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But when it comes to epic waves, there's only one place on earth known as the “surf capital of the world.” The epic beach we're talking about is Pichilemu. Pichilemu is located in the center of Chile, right by the coast. It is a rough three-hour drive from Chile's capital, Santiago, to Pichilemu.

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Hannah continues: “The clarity and turquoise colour in west Cornwall compared to say the North Sea or Bristol Channel is also because of the heavy sand particles which sit on the seabed, and lack of sediment swirling around in the water column.”

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And Cornwall's lack of major rivers is also a contributing factor. Hannah explains: “We have no major rivers to bring down lots of mud and silt, and it has been a very dry spring which has meant the streams are not washing mud into our bays and beaches.

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Among surfers, the term “heavy” can refer to any wave that is particularly dangerous. That includes waves that are literally heavy, heaving a crushing amount of water toward the shore and onto unlucky surfers. The waves off the coast of Teahupo'o in southern Tahiti have been called the heaviest in the world.

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Turbulent water and rushing waves create quite the setting in County Sligo. Mullaghmore Head might just be the biggest wave in the British Isles, it's certainly one of the biggest waves in Europe! Often whipped up by high winds and bracing rain, this left-hand beach break only forms at high tide.

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Widemouth Bay, located in North Cornwall, is a popular spot among surfers of all abilities. Whether it's your first time riding the waves or you're an experienced surfer looking for the biggest waves, Widemouth Bay offers plenty of space and an ideal spot for everyone.

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Huntington Beach officially adopted the Surf City USA nickname in 1991.

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Huntington Beach officially adopted the Surf City USA nickname in 1991.

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According to surf historians, Huntington Beach was first surfed in 1907 by Hawaiian waterman and surfing pioneer George Freeth. Huntington Beach officially adopted the Surf City USA nickname in January 2008 after a long and tense trademark dispute between the Southern California city and Santa Cruz.

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The water temperature in Cornwall can reach up to 18-20°C, so a 3/2mm wetsuit will prevent you melting.

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Praia do Norte | Nazaré, Portugal Home to several Guinness World Records - including the largest wave ever ridden and biggest wave ever surfed by a woman - Nazaré's Praia do Norte is a rare natural phenomenon. Despite being a beach break, it is so powerful and heavy that some call it the surfboard-breaking machine.

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