Why do shallow lakes have bigger waves?

The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp-crested wave shape.



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In general, the deeper the water is, the faster and larger a wave can become. So, if you know that the average depth of Lake Monona is 27 feet, while Lake Mendota's is 42 feet, then you have a pretty good idea that Mendota's going to make bigger waves.

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1. NAZARE, PORTUGAL. Nazare is home to the worlds biggest waves, clocking in a record breaking 86ft! What's strange though is that this wave wasn't even on the big wave surfing map up until 2010.

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During the early morning hours, the land and the water start out at roughly the same temperature. On a calm morning, a given pressure surface will be at the same height above both the land and water. A few hours later, the sun's energy begins to warm the land more rapidly than the water.

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